SwanRobotics

Tag: Ultimaker

inMoov has a Chest
The world is unfair. My Ultimaker printer had to do more then 70 hours of printing and it took me only 1 hour to put the parts on the inMoov robot. 😉 Below you can see all the parts from the Chest.

From left to right and from top to bottom you can see the following parts:
- ChestTopAttachV1 (right and left part)
- ChestTopV1 (right and left part)
- SideRibsCoverV1 (right and left part)
- ChestRightV1
- InMrightV1HollowV1 (orange)
- InMleftV1HollowV1 (orange)
- ChestLeftV1
- BottomChestV1(right and left part)
- MiddleChest+PIRV1
- UnderKinectV1 (right and left part in black)
I am very happy with the results of these prints and they fit really well. The easiest way to mount the chestparts is starting with the ChestRight and ChestLeft together with the InMrightV1Hollow and InMleftHollow. After this you can mount the MiddleChest+PIR and the Kinect. The Kinect is mounted with the UnderKinect parts. I had to push it in with a little bit force to fit it together. I think this was caused by some warping of the prints.

The inMoov robot gets a PIR sensor to react on people moving by. This is not done yet so you can see a nice hole where the PIR sensor should.

Make sure you check the website from Gael Langevin at www.inmoov.fr.
June 2, 2015
Schoulder Inmoov

The shoulder of the inMoov robot exists of several parts. In this post I describe the build of the parts responsible for the up and down motion of the arm en the back and forward rotation.

My Ultimaker original with a heated bed prints clean parts most of the time. Only the first layer leaves some burr so I use a file and a knife to remove it.

The PivWorm part need a lot more work to make it ready to use. First you have to remove the support needed for the worm shape. I used pliers to remove the big parts by breaking it with a little bit of force.

After this I needed a knive to remove the supports sticking to the worm part itself. Also the bottom side of the worm needed a file to remove the irregularities.

After mounting the PivWorm in it’s casing and adding the PivGear part it did fit as I expected. The strange thing was that the Tooth of the gear where hitting the end of the worm at end closest to the servo. On the InMoov forum this was discussed a few time but it seems not a lot of people experience this problem. I fixed it by using the file again. On the picture below you can see clearly the work I have to make it fit.

After this was done it was time to wear it in a little bit. I connected the servo and make it run for 30 minutes and cleaned it afterwards.

The gear and worm received a big amount of grease and the housing was closed. The potentiometer was mounted in the square PivPotentio part which is available on Thingiverse at http://www.thingiverse.com/hairygael/collections/inmoov-parts-and-derivatives. I used a servo motor driver and current meter to see if it worked. At first it did work at it supposed to be and almost break the potentiometer on the right side. The two outside wires on potentiometer should be switched because the angle was measured the wrong way around.

A bit of hot glue to secure the wires and prevent the bare wires to touch each other.

Next the servo was put in the ServoHolster and the PistionClavi was mounted on the Servo.

Then the two parts where connected to each other with the two servoholder parts.

On the pictures below you can see the mounted parts on the torso. I also used the square version from potentiometer holder from Thingiverse.

The final result is with the two shoulders attached to the InMoov torso. This is nice progress.

Make sure you check the website from Gael Langevin at www.inmoov.fr.

May 24, 2015
InMoov follows own progress

A nice picture of my InMoov robot following it’s own progress.

Can you guess what part the Ultimaker is making?

Be sure you check the website from Gael Langevin at www.inmoov.fr.

May 15, 2015
More prints
This weekend my Ultimaker delivered 4 parts. The first part was the LowarmsideV1. I also did this part last weekend, but now I printed it with a square potentiometer mount. The designer of the inMoov, Gael Langevin pointed me to this piece on www.wevolver.com last week. You can find this design on Thingiverse at www.thingiverse.com/hairygael/collections/inmoov-parts-and-derivatives. I like it, because with the left arm I had to modify the hole with my Dremel.

In the picture above you can see from left to right and from top to bottom the following pieces.
- elbowshaftgearV1
- robpart5V3
- LowarmsideV1
- pistonbaseantiV1
The robpart5V3 is a part for the lower arm and took me over 11 hours to print. I want a nice result so it takes a while. The result is nice. I only removed the print support from the robpart5V3. The parts came out the printer as shown on the picture.

Be sure you check the website from Gael Langevin at www.inmoov.fr.
April 19, 2015
4 parts of inMoov robot
The Ultimaker Original printed 4 parts from the inMoov Robot this weekend. I wanted to do 2 more parts, but somehow I did not planned it very well. On the picture you can see the 4 print in PLA that came out very nicely.
- 2 x lowarmsideV1
- PistonanticlockV1
- servobaseV1
Just a few parts to go and the right bicep of the inMoov robot is printed. Make sure that you check out the great website from the designer of this nice robot (www.inmoov.fr).
April 12, 2015
BOB the Biped legs
While printing the inMoov robot I made some progress on BOB the Biped. This is an open source project build by K.Biagini. You can find it at http://www.instructables.com/id/BoBtheBiPed/

To build BOB you have to print 6 parts on a 3D printer. BOB has four servo’s. Two for each leg and is powered by 4 AAA sized batteries.

Part list
- 3D printed parts
- 4 small servo motors
- Battery holder for 4 AAA batteries
- Arduino Pro Mini (5V)
- Distance Meter
- Wires
- Small breadboard
Printing the parts
BOB has only 6 parts. The base plate, the head, two brackets and two foots. I used a Ultimaker printer to make the parts and took a day to print. I am planning to make two of them. One red and one pink. I have two daughters. The parts have a tight fit so you need to sand it down a bit.

Mounting the parts
I used small servo’s from Tower Pro. There are three screws in the package. I used two to mount the servo lever to the L-shaped bracket. The four spare screws from the four servo’s are used for mounting the two servo’s on the feet. I used hot glue to fix the servo’s to the base plate.

As you can see on the photo, I soldered a 3 pin connector on the wires of the servos.
February 23, 2014